Il me reste quelques plaques du châssis à installer. SS1+CP11 qui forment les faces d'appui des arches de roues arrière, CP8, supports de réservoir d'essence, CP9+CP25 qui sont les points de fixation arrière de l'arceau, et enfin CP23 qui sont les équerres de fixation des durits de frein.
I still have a few chassis plates to install. SS1+CP11 which shape the sitting faces of the rear arches, CP8, on which the fuel tank is going to seat, CP9+CP25 which are the roll-bar's rear fitting points, and CP23 which are the flexible brake line brackets.
J'ai découpé moi même ces plaques à la disqueuse, c'est pas aussi joli que la découpe laser, c'est sur... Je courbe à l'étau les plaques SS1 en les pliant petit à petit et en les faisant correspondre à la courbure des plaques de 1mm d'épaisseur CP11 qui m'avaient été fournies par Madis avec le reste des plaques de la découpe laser.
I cut the plates myself with my angle grinder. it is not as nice as laser cut plates, that is for sure... I bend them little by little in the vise to make their curve match the outline of CP11 1mm plates which were supplied by Madis with the rest of the plates from laser cutting.
Puis je soude SS1 et CP11. Pas facile de souder du 3mm sur du 1mm avec ma petite expérience de soudeur. J'ai fait quelques trous qu'il a fallu reboucher...
Then I weld SS1 and CP11. Not easy to weld 3mm plates on 1mm plates with my very small welding experience. I blew a few holes that I had to fill afterwards.
If I had to rebuild a chassis now, I would order all plates out of 3mm thick steel. It is clear for everyone now that CP16 (top foot-well plate on which the pedal box is bolted) is not stiff enough in 1mm (book's specification) and has to be done in 3mm (see this thread). So why not also make CP11 out of 3mm plate, it would be easier to weld, and the weight difference will not change anything to the Roadster's performances. There is only CP17 which is justified to be made out of 1mm plate, because it has to be bent. But ordering all the plates from a company with only one piece of 1mm plate will make the cost very high for this plate (same if you are doing it yourself, buying steel in 1mm thickness for only one part will not make this plate cheap). So I would do it in 3mm too, or in aluminium like the rest of the transmission tunnel walls.
Je finalise la forme des plaques CP8.
I finalize the shape of CP8.
Je pointe les plaques CP23 avant.
I tack the front CP23.
Puis je ponte CP9 et CP25 à l'arrière.
Then I tack CP9 and CP25 at the rear.
C'est au tour des plaques CP8 de prendre place sur le châssis.
It is now CP8's turn to be tacked on the chassis.
Puis des CP23 à l'arrière.
Then the rear CP23.
Je modifierai plus tard la place de ces supports de flexibles de frein arrière pour les placer à un endroit qui me parait plus logique (sous RS7 et RS7a).
I will change the position of these rear brake line brackets later to put them in a position which looks more logical to me (under RS7 and RS7a).
Retour au présent, je pointe maintenant l'ensemble SS1 et CP11 sur le châssis.
Back to the present. I now tack the SS1+CP11 assemblies on the chassis.
Et voici le châssis à ce stade de la construction.
And here is the chassis at that stage of the build.
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